The
Hakama–symbol of the Samurai
Taken
from Martial Arts Illustrated July 1998. VOL 11 NO.2
Anyone associated with the more
traditional Japanese systems of martial arts has at some time seen senior
students or instructors glide across the dojo or tatami wearing what appears to
be a large flowing skirt (particularly those associated with Ju Jutsu, Aikido,
Kendo or Iaido). This has either been viewed with amusement, or with awe,
especially when an executed technique results in the wearer arcing through the
air in a spectacular fashion and the Hakama, as the garment is known, opens wide
to give the technique a visually stunning effect.
These ‘skirts’ are actually
large pleated trousers and were a symbol, traditionally, of Samurai status. Many
associate the Katana, or long sword, as the mark of the Samurai, and this is
true, particularly of later Samurai in their long and illustrious evolution.
However, before the zenith of the sword, Samurai were mounted archers, and this
gave the early origins of the Hakama.
The Gi, as we know it, was
originally undergarments of the Samurai, over which the Hakama was worn to
protect the mounted horseman’s legs from chaffing as he rode through the brush
or from long periods in the saddle. They served the same purpose as say the
leather chaps worn by cowboys of the Wild West for protection. However, leather
was very difficult to come by and extremely expensive in feudal Japan, so a
heavy cloth was utilized instead As the Samurai further developed and eventually
became foot soldiers, the Hakama was retained to set them apart from the lower
ranking Bushi, as an elite fighting group.
It is said that at the heart of
Bujutsu and the various Ryu lies subtle strategy, and this strategy can be
reflected in footwork. Hakama worn correctly lie just at ground level and served
a purpose in hiding the feet, and thus not revealing intentions and strategy.
Modern day practitioners that wear a Hakama half way up their shins, generally
for easier movement, make a mockery of its true meaning and understanding, and a
lack of skill that is required to execute good technique when worn correctly.
There were different styles of
Hakama but the most common one in use today is the ‘joba’ Hakama that has
legs. It literally means ‘horse riding thing which one steps into’. Another
version worn was for court use or formal occasions. This Hakama could have a
train up to fifteen feet long, which was folded repeatedly and placed at the
posterior of the wearer. This caused the need for ‘shikko,’ which would make
it difficult for wearers to hide weapons or to rise quickly to launch a surprise
attack upon the emperor or shogun. They could be made from all sorts of
materials and have family crests or motifs woven into them. The more formal
would be more elaborate with bright colors, pictures or patterns and made of
expensive silks.
The Hakama, as well as being the
symbol of the Samurai, also reflected the code and ethics that they lived by
within its design. Traditionally, they have seven pleats, two at the rear, and
five at the front.
The two pleats in the back, from
right to left, represent the two driving forces of the Samurai; Meiyo, or honor,
and Chugi, loyalty or devotion. This was honor to himself, his clan, his family
and above all, his lord. Chugi was absolute loyalty and devotion to his lord,
fief and duty. (No better exemplified than by the story of the 47 Ronin!) So
these were the two main driving forces of the Samurai, the reasons for his
existence. Leading the Samurai, the five pleats in the front of the Hakama,
represented the five virtues of life, the ethics by which he lived. Again,
starting from the right side, the first pleat is Yuki, courage or valor. A
Samurai was courageous in whatever his duty required, and approached all tasks
with this absolute commitment and detachment from personal concerns, be it in
battle or even seppuku.
Secondly, we have Jin, humanity or
benevolence. This was rooted in a mixture of Buddhist and Shinto beliefs. A
Samurai would show charity to those around him that needed his help and even in
battle would not see an enemy suffer unnecessarily.
Thirdly, we have Gi, or justice
and integrity and a belief in justice, with a strong adherence to moral
principles. The Samurai were the law and had the right to cut down lower ranks
or classes but this was not a privilege to be abused. Quite often, if a Samurai
felt that a huge injustice had been committed and etiquette and rank prevented
him from intervening, then, out of a sense of his integrity, he would commit
seppuku to remonstrate his beliefs in true justice.
The next pleat, fourth in line,
was Rei, courtesy and etiquette. The Japanese class system is rigid with
protocol, correct etiquette and courtesy, having its roots in early Chinese
Confucian doctrines. A Samurai would meticulously prepare himself each day and
act and behave as his status demanded; an example to other classes of how a
correct man should behave and conduct himself. This legacy is still apparent
even today in modern Japan.
Finally, we have Makoto, or
honesty and sincerity. All the previous ideals and even driving forces of the
Samurai would be of no consequence if his heart, motives and actions were not
sincere. His actions had to be pure and genuine and hence his beliefs.